“Christmas Stirfry”

My husband made this for dinner yesterday, and it was strikingly pretty (as well as tasty!), in the perfect seasonal colors.

Garlic chives, jiucai in Mandarin, are available in Asian markets and at farmers’ markets that have vendors of Asian produce. The look like a long, flattened version of our chives. When fully grown they are not hollow at the center and sometimes have buds at the tips. If you can’t find them, you can substitute the more commonly found chives (reduce the cooking time) or scallions cut into thin 2″ long strips. The flavor won’t be identical, but it will be tasty all the same.

Pressed beancurd, called doufu gan (sort of translates into “tofu jerky!”) is literally tofu that has been pressed to squeeze out excess moisture. The result is a firmer texture that some people compare to meat, although the flavor is of course different. Pressed tofu comes in a variety of flavors – the most common one for this dish is five-spice, which has a dark, slightly smoky exterior and an off-white center. You can easily substitute baked tofu, now readily available in most conventional markets, for this ingredient. Since much of the flavor in this dish comes from the beancurd, you can play around with the various flavors available – bbq might be interesting here – but you may want to reduce or eliminate the soy sauce in that case.

Leftovers? This stirfry is excellent mixed into Fried Rice.

ingredients:

• 3 squares pressed five-spice beancurd or baked five-spice tofu (other flavors can be substituted)
• 4 oz garlic chives (or use 2 oz chives or 4 scallions as mentioned above)
• 1/2 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4 x 1.5″ strips
• 1 T oil
• 1 tsp light soy sauce
• 1/4 tsp salt, or more to taste

method:

1. Slice the beancurd 1/8″ thick, then cut the slices into shreds approximately 1.5″ long.
2. Wash the chives well and cut into 1.5″ lengths – you can keep the buds intact if there are any.
3. Heat the oil in the wok just  until it shimmers.
4. Add the tofu and stirfry to coat with the oil and heat through.
5. Add the chives and red pepper strips and stirfry gently until the vegetable just wilts but is still bright green.
6. Add the soy sauce, stir to combine and heat thoroughly, adjust seasoning, then slide onto the serving plate.

Stirfried Bok Choy

We’ve been mourning the fact that we can’t seem to find decent Asian produce in Ann Arbor (this may finally commit me to a garden next summer!), but this past Thursday’s CSA share included some gorgeous, delicious purple bok choy. For more information on the vegetable, visit Kitazawa Seed Company. It was almost too fresh to cook (I ate a few leaves straight out of the rinse water), but I ended up making a simply stirfry, separating the stems and leaves so that the kids (who don’t like the leaves) would also enjoy it. Make sure to keep the cooking time to a minimum so that the gorgeous color, delicious crunchiness and clean flavor remain, particularly in the stems.

ingredients:

• 2 heads purple bok choy
• 2 T oil
• 2 cloves garlic, sliced
• salt to taste

method:

1. Soak the cabbage in cool water, then remove and separate into leaves.
2. Soak in fresh water, then remove to a dry bowl. If a lot of grit remains in the rinse water, soak a 3rd time.
3. Cut the stems into 1/4″ sections, the leaves into 1/2″ ribbons and keep them separate.
4. Heat the wok over medium high heat, then add the oil, heating just until it shimmers.
5. Add the garlic and explode just until fragrant – do not let it brown and become bitter.
6. Add the stems and stirfry briefly, just until the color is vibrant and some crunchiness still remains.
7. Season with salt and remove to a plate, spreading into a circle around the edge.
8. Add the remaining oil to the wok, heat just until it shimmers, then stirfry the leaves until they are wilted and just turning tender.
9. Season with salt and arrange in the middle of the serving plate.

Grilled Zucchini with Sesame Ginger Vinaigrette

Still coping with a surplus of summer squash…. This recipe can be made with any grilled vegetable and can be served warm or at room temperature.

ingredients:

• approximately 1 lb zucchini or yellow crookneck squash
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 2 oz Sesame Ginger Vinaigrette, or to taste
• 1 T chopped cilantro

method:

1. Slice the squash 1/8″ thick: for smaller squash, I like to take off top and tail and then use a mandolin to cut into long strips; for larger ones, I usually slice on a diagonal, also using a mandolin.
2. Spread the slices out on a sheet pan, then sprinkle with salt and let rest for 15-30 m.
3. Pat the squash dry with a clean kitchen towel, then toss with 1 oz of the vinaigrette.
4. Grill over high heat, approximately 1 m per side.
5. Arrange on a serving plate, drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette, and sprinkle with the cilantro.

do ahead:

The vinaigrette can be prepared up to a week ahead, the squash up to 2 hours ahead – do not drizzle with vinaigrette or sprinkle with cilantro until just before serving.

Quick Vegetable Pickles

So now it’s finally summer in Ann Arbor – 90s and HUMID. Perfect weather for cold pickles on the side of any meal. Here is an adaptation of a recipe from my son’s godmother – I’ve changed a few ingredients to make it more Chinese. You can use just about any pickling vegetables you like, and it’s a great way to use up those green tomatoes.

You will need to plan ahead for this, though – the pickles need to rest overnight at room temperature, then be refrigerated until completely chilled, so plan on 24 hours before they are ready to eat.  This will make approximately 2.5 lbs of pickles – they will keep up to 2 weeks in the fridge (if you don’t eat them before that!)

vegetables:

You will need approximately 2.5 lbs of vegetables. Some of our favorites:

• tomatoes (any color, including green), cut into 8ths
• celery, cut into 1/2 x 1/2 x 2″ sticks
• carrots, cut into 1/2 x 1/2 x 2″ sticks
• bell peppers (any color), cut into 1″ dice
• green beans, ends removed, blanched and shocked
• jalapenos, cut into rounds

brine ingredients:

• 1 qt water (4 c)
• 1/2 c vinegar, rice wine or apple cider varieties are best
• 5 black peppercorns
• 10 coriander seeds
• 1.5 T sea salt
• 3 T sugar, raw cane is preferable
• 12 cloves garlic, peeled and gently crushed
• 1 bunch cilantro, including stems, coarsely chopped

method:

1. Bring the water and vinegar to a boil, then add the peppercorns, coriander seeds, salt, and sugar, and stir until salt and sugar are dissolved.
2. Place all the vegetables in a heat resistant glass bowl or container.
3. Tuck the garlic cloves and cilantro into the vegetables.
4. Pour the boiling brine over the vegetables, making sure that you have enough to submerge them entirely.
5. Cover lightly and rest at room temperature overnight.
6. Refrigerate until chilled, and serve as a cold side dish.

do ahead:

These pickles will last up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator, and their flavor will only improve with time.

Summer Squash, the 101st Way

My children are starting to look suspiciously at any new dish that appears on the table: would that contain zucchini by any chance? We have purchased CSA shares from Two Creeks Organics and are drowning in killer summer squash (frittata, muffins, sauteed, grilled, …) among other delicious veggies and the most amazing pastured eggs I have ever tasted. Here is my quasi-Chinese take on pattypan squash, which works better for this dish than zucchini or yellow squash, given its somewhat denser texture. Do not crowd the wok, or the squash will steam rather than stirfry – better to do 2 batches if necessary.

ingredients:

• 2 medium pattypan squash, approximately 8 oz
• 1 T oil
• 1 T light soy sauce
• 1 tsp sugar, brown or raw cane is best
• 1/4 tsp salt, or to taste

method:

1. Scrub the squash gently to remove the prickly fuzz, then cut into 1/2″ dice.
2. Combine the soy sauce and sugar, and set aside.
3. Heat the wok over medium high heat, then add the oil, just until it shimmers.
4. Add the squash (in batches if necessary), and stirfry gently until lightly browned.
5. Add the soy sauce mixture just until a light glaze forms.
6. Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately.

Steamed Zucchini

Like beets, zucchini is another vegetable I’ve never seen in China or in a Chinese restaurant. But occasionally I come across a recipe for it (as in Jack Santa Maria’s Chinese Vegetarian Cookery). I’ve used zucchini in a pinch (when I’d planned to make an eggplant dish and realized I didn’t have eggplant!) and found it to be a great substitute for both eggplant and cucumbers – it’s spongy in nature, like eggplant, so it will readily absorb any flavors you add to the dish. Beware though – this means it will also readily absorb a lot of oil.

The following dish can be served hot or cold.

ingredients:

• 1 lb zucchini, cut into 1/2″ x 1/2″ x 2″ strips

dressing:

• 1 tsp ginger root, minced
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/4 tsp garlic, minced
• 1 T light soy sauce
• 1 T sesame oil
• 1/2 T rice wine vinegar or black vinegar

garnish:

• 1 ea scallion, sliced thinly on the diagonal
• 1 T chopped cilantro

method:

1. Arrange the zucchini on a heatproof plate, then steam until just tender. Drain off any accumulated liquid. If you will be serving the dish cold, allow zucchini to come to room temperature, then refrigerate for up to 4 hours.
2. Combine the dressing ingredients. Just before serving, pour dressing over the zucchini and mix gently to combine.
3. Garnish with scallion and cilantro.

do ahead:

To serve this dish cold, you can steam the zucchini up to several hours in advance. Pour off any accumulated liquid and add the sauce just before serving. The dressing can be made several hours in advance and stored in the refrigerator or at room temperature.

Pickled Beets

Beets…. Not the first vegetable that comes to mind when you think about Chinese food? I’ve never seen beets (called tang luobo, “sugar turnip”) served in a Chinese restaurant or in a Chinese home, but their sweetness is a great foil to the pickling process and five spice powder, so I thought I’d try it. And I thought they were great!

Five spice powder’s claim to fame is that it includes all 5 flavors found in Chinese cooking: sweet, sour, bitter, pungent, and salty. You can make your own by combining equal parts whole Sichuan (or other) peppercorn, cinnamon sticks, cloves, fennel seed, and star anise. After toasting the spices lightly, grind in a mortar or with a coffee or spice grinder. If you’re in a hurry or don’t want to mess with that, five-spice is also available pre-mixed in Asian markets and in some conventional groceries – try the Asian section first, then the baking/spice aisle.

ingredients:

• 3-4 small beets, tops reserved for some other dish
• 1 T sea salt dissolved in 2 T water
• 1 tsp brown or raw cane sugar
• 2-3 T rice wine vinegar
• 1 pinch of five-spice powder

method:

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (or use any temperature between 300 & 400 if your oven is on for another purpose).
2. Wash the beets well, then pat dry and cut off the root end. Wrap loosely in foil, place in a baking pan, and roast until a sharp knife enters easily to the center, approximately 1-1.5 h if the oven is at 350. Be careful not to pierce the bottom of the foil, or the beet sugar will burn onto your pan if you need to continue to bake.
3. Let the beets cool, then slip off the skins and refrigerate until cool.
4. Cut into thin slices, then into strips, or use a mandolin to julienne the beets.
5. Toss the beets with the salted water and allow to rest at room temperature for 30-60 m.
6. Rinse in cool water and drain well, then add the remaining ingredients and mix well.
7. Adjust the seasoning – you may need to add a bit of salt – and chill until serving time.

do ahead:

You can do steps 1-2 any time up to 1 week in advance – plan to roast the beets when you have something else to bake or roast, and you’ll save yourself time and do a nice thing for Mother Earth!

The completed dish will last up to a week in the refrigerator.

Spinach with Fermented Beancurd

This recipe may fall under the “I’ll try anything once, twice if I like it” category – it calls for an odd ingredient called fermented beancurd (furu), which comes in spicy and bland varieties. Before you read on and say, “Ewww,” just remember how bleu cheese is made. Fuchsia Dunlop writes that it is

…an essential relish with a pungent, cheesy flavor and a creamy texture. It is made by covering firm bean curd in dry rice straw and leaving it to mold for a couple of weeks. The molded curd is cut into cubes, mixed with strong liquor, salt, star anise, and chili flakes, and packed into pickling jars for at least a month to mature.

Gloria Bley Miller simply calls it “Chinese white cheese.” (The chili version is reddish.) If you have an Asian market nearby, you will be able to find it – if not, you’re probably out of luck unless you want to try your hand at making it and happen to have dry rice straw on hand. Besides cooking with it, we also use it as a condiment for steamed buns (mantou) – the kids just call it “salty tofu” – and Dunlop claims it’s tasty spread on toast. Store the fermented tofu in the refrigerator, making sure that it is completely covered with its liquid – if there is not enough liquid, add enough oil or sesame oil to cover.

ingredients:

• 1 lb spinach or water spinach
• 2 cloves garlic, sliced
• 1-2 cubes of fermented beancurd
• 2 T water
• 1 pinch sugar
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 2 T oil

method:

1. Soak the spinach in cool water, then remove, allowing the grit to remain in the bowl or sink. Repeat this until no grit remains. If you are using water spinach, remove the stems and reserve for another dish. Drain the leaves, allowing some water to cling to them.
2. In a small bowl, mash the beancurd into a thin paste with the water, sugar, and salt.
3. Heat a wok over medium-high heat, then add the oil, just until it shimmers. Explode the garlic just until fragrant.
4. Add the spinach and stirfry only until wilted.
5. Add the beancurd paste and stirfry quickly until it is well mixed in and coats all the vegetable.
6. Adjust the seasoning and serve.

Braised Peas

Spring has definitley sprung in SoCal – I think we may actually get a few days of it before summer hits – and with it spring brings some fantastic English peas. We’ve been putting them in risotto, making stirfried rice with them, and just enjoying them steamed. Here is a simple stirfry version if you can get your hands on some – frozen will work too, just rinse in cold water to thaw and reduce the cooking time. You need to buy a lot and it does take time to shell them, but it’s something kids love to help with (although you’ll be lucky if more go in the bowl than in their mouths!)

ingredients:

• 12 oz shelled peas
• 2 slices fresh ginger root, peeled and cut into thin strips
• 1/4 c stock, broth or water
• 1/4 tsp sugar
• 1 T oil
• 1/4 tsp salt

method:

1. Combine stock and sugar and set aside.
2. Heat the oil in a wok over medium high heat just until it shimmers, then add the ginger root and explode until fragrant.
3. Add the peas and stirfry quickly to coat with oil and heat through.
4. Add the stock and sugar mixture and bring to a rolling boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the peas are cooked through and the liquid mostly evaporated, approximately 2-3 m. You may have to add more liquid.
5. Adjust the seasoning and serve.

Braised Daikon

Unlike in the Stirfried Daikon recipe, for this dish you want to cook the radish until it is tender, but still not falling apart. You can easily make this vegan by using water or vegetable stock for the liquid, although a good homemade chicken stock adds a more complex, rich flavor. Daikon, also called Asian radish, can be purchased in Asian markets, but it’s also more and more readily available in conventional grocery stores that feature an Asian vegetable section. My favorites of course come from the farmers’ market, where you can buy just about any variety (and in giant sizes, which the kids call “killer daikon”). For more information on daikon, visit Kitazawa Seed Company‘s site.

ingredients:

• 1 daikon, approximately 1 lb, peeled and cut into matchsticks
• 1 small carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks (save the peels for making soup!)
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 1 T oil
• 1 c water or broth or stock, homemade if possible, low-sodium organic if storebought
• salt to taste

method:

1. Toss the daikon and carrot with the salt and set aside for 30 m, then rinse in cool water and wring out in a clean kitchen towel.
2. Heat the oil in a wok over medium high heat until it shimmers, then add the vegetables and stirfry quickly until they are coated with oil and begin to brown slightly.
3. Add 1/2 c of the liquid, bring to a boil, and reduce to a simmer, occasionally stirring gently, until the liquid is absorbed and the vegetable is tender. You may have to add more liquid in 2 T increments before the vegetable is tender enough.
4. Adjust the seasoning (you may not need to add any salt), and serve.